Sauna Design

In our experience, Juniper provides a far more intense and therapeutic aroma than standard cedar. We utilize Juniper panels behind benches because the wood releases natural spicy oils when heated, acting as a powerful, permanent aromatherapy treatment for the bather.

Over time, the surface can oxidize, causing the fragrance to dampen. We recommend a light annual sanding with fine-grit sandpaper to reopen the wood's pores and reactivate its signature aroma for several more seasons.

We view Emotionwood as a premium architectural tool. These panels feature 3D patterns, such as axe-split textures or waves, that we use to create a visual focal point, breaking the visual monotony of traditional horizontal or vertical slats.

Yes. Because it is processed at extreme temperatures, thermally modified wood like Ash or Pine is significantly more dimensionally stable. We find it is the superior choice for feature walls as it won't shrink or warp, even when placed directly behind the heater.

Soapstone is the ultimate thermal mass. We recommend soapstone backdrops because they absorb the "harsh" infrared heat from the heater and release it as soft, radiant warmth, keeping the room warmer for longer periods with less energy.

While slate is common, we consider Soapstone superior because it is non-porous and chemically inert. We prioritize it because it will not crack under thermal shock if water is accidentally splashed on it during a high-heat session.

We strictly advise using a cement-based backer board and high-temperature thin-set mortar. We caution against gluing stone directly to wood; the natural expansion and contraction of the timber will eventually cause the stones to pop off the surface.

We require non-slip porcelain or unglazed ceramic for all sauna floors. We strictly suggest avoiding polished marble or high-gloss tiles, as they become extremely hazardous when wet. We look for a COF rating of 0.60 or higher for bather safety.

Yes. In our professional view, a floor drain is essential in any room utilizing steam. It is critical for sanitizing the space and managing excess water from heavy "Loyly" sessions, keeping the substrate beneath the tile dry.

Yes. We often install electric heating mats beneath the tile in high-end builds. This ensures the floor remains warm to the touch even in winter, effectively eliminating the "cold feet" sensation common in North American climates.

While tile is hygienic, it can feel hard and industrial. We suggest using a cedar duckboard on top of the tile to provide that traditional wood feel underfoot while allowing the drain and tile below to manage moisture effectively.

We recommend the wall directly behind the heater as the primary "Hero Wall." Using stone or Juniper here creates a stunning visual backdrop while serving a functional purpose by protecting the timber frame from the heater's peak temperatures.

Absolutely. We often utilize high-contrast designs, such as dark Thermo-Ash benches against light Western Red Cedar walls, to give the sanctuary a custom, designer appearance that feels more expensive than a mono-wood room.

Yes, provided it is natural stone. We strictly caution against manufactured (concrete-based) stone veneers, as the dyes and chemical binders can off-gas or discolor when exposed to 190°F temperatures.

Yes. Stone and tile act as heat sinks. For every square foot of stone or tile accenting, we calculate an additional 1 to 1.5 cubic feet of volume to ensure the heater is not undersized for the room's total thermal mass.

We recommend a mild solution of water and non-toxic soap. We strictly caution against chemical bathroom cleaners, as the grout can absorb these chemicals and release overwhelming fumes once the sauna is heated.

Yes. We suggest a high-quality penetrating sealer to prevent body oils and water from staining the joints. In high-traffic commercial builds, we often utilize epoxy-based grouts for their 100% waterproof and stain-resistant properties.

All natural timber will patina. While we find that thermally modified accent walls hold their base color longer than raw cedar, they will inevitably shift toward a richer, darker tone over years of exposure to heat and light.

Never. We have verified that the adhesives in these products are not rated for sauna heat. They will peel, bubble, and potentially release toxic chemical odors within the first few sessions.

For high-traffic US gym environments, we strictly recommend full porcelain tile or soapstone. While beautiful, we find that wood accent walls like Juniper require more frequent maintenance to handle constant commercial cleaning and heavy use.